Today I pulled over to take pictures and another bike gypsy stopped and joined me. He asked if I heard about the guy who got sideswiped by a truck and broke his arm. I hadn't heard but I'm not surprised. The last three days of Highway 1 have have been incredibly scenic, but half the time there is no shoulder whatsoever. There are fewer trucks on CA-1 than 101, but between the fuel and logging trucks, the campers, and the pot smokers (you can smell them passing by), there are some perilous moments for sure. This stretch of road is easily more treacherous than Big Sur, and it makes Highway 9's shoulder look like bike path. Fortunately, most drivers are very aware and considerate of the cyclists.
At least if you get run off the road here, it's not over a cliff
So hey, I broke the 1,000-mile mark today (actually I went over 1,000 miles on Day 16 but I didn't figure that out until after the entire ride). How about that! Two weeks ago, I was dubious that I'd even make it three more days. Instead, I've continued to feel stronger and stronger over these last 14 days of riding. Today, I actually felt like a real cyclist again for the first 20 miles, until three other (retired) bikers staying at my motel passed me like I was standing still. The first 40 miles still flew by. The roads were smooth, the wind was at my back, and it was nothing but gentle rollers along the Pacific Coast bluffs.
When it cleared (again), lots of this
The weather started out clear, then clouded quickly, then mostly cleared again. But about the time I crossed the Russian River at mile 40, a second, cooler cloud front came in and the wind started swirling. Those gentle rollers gave way to steep up & downs along the coastal cliffs, and the final 24 miles were tougher, but I still felt great all day. A minor handlebar adjustment in Fort Bragg seems to have eliminated most of my neck/trapezoid discomfort, and that alone makes for a more enjoyable ride.
...but then it clouded up and cooled again
...hold on, sun's back out
I stopped in Bodega Bay, where Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds was filmed and ate at "The Birds". I still remember that as the first scary movie I saw and how it frightened the crap out of me.
Crow tacos ahead
OK, they weren't REALLY crow tacos
The fog rolled into Bodega Bay while I was eating, but that's also where I followed Highway 1 inland, and no sooner had I put on my windbreaker than I was able to take it back off as temperatures warmed again as I moved inland.
Fog descends on Bodega Bay
After a country roll and then one last grinder climb, I coasted the last mile into Tomales. I like this little, one-corner town. There is a bakery (already been there), a grocery store (been there), a deli/cafe (been there), an Inn (staying there), a bank building (closed), and a restaraunt/bar (just had dinner there). And that's about it.
Most of Tomales
There are, however, no tomales in Tomales. But there ARE Hot Tomales at the grocery store, two cute girls and their mom baking cookies at the bakery, someone who will card a 56 year-old man who orders a beer at the deli (yes, I got carded!), a company called "Not A Tomales Bank" in the bank building, and a pets-ok policy at the Inn, but no bikes permitted in the rooms.
You'd think the Hot Tomales in Tomales would at least get a higher shelf
Let it be known that at the age of 56 years, 204 days, Jeff Fredericks had to show his ID to buy a beer here
Sad bike has to sleep in the downstairs hallway
Day 17 Recap: Fort Bragg, CA to Tomales, CA
Actual Miles: 64.3
Cumulative Miles: 1,105.4
Elevation Gain: 3,839'
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 45,402'
% Distance to Mexico: 58.7%
Actual Miles: 64.3
Cumulative Miles: 1,105.4
Elevation Gain: 3,839'
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 45,402'
% Distance to Mexico: 58.7%
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